blueknightcosplay:


 

Like many of my cosplay adventures this all starts at the kitchen table. 
Well almost most of my cosplay start on my computer with tons of research. Lol
#1
Just getting started.
So after the research I pull the best side view of the weapon I can find in to paint.net. (You can use Photoshop or Gimp too, you just need a basic image editing program for this part.)
Pull your image into the editor.  First erase any background around your image you don’t need it and it will waist your ink.  Next go to effects - artistic - pencil sketch, and then adjust how dark you want it. 
#2
Now we move on to size! 
You are going to have to get out a yard stick or something to help you judge the size your weapon should be. I’m only 5’6” so my weapons need to fit my scale, but we are all different so the size is up to you. Other things are factors too… will it fit in your car/ how are you getting it to the con, etc. Is the place you plan on taking it very crowded and you might stab someone with it if it’s too big? 
After you have determined how big you want your weapon to be.  Resize the image accordingly and you are ready to print! Make sure you are printing in grey-scale and you have marked print actual size.  You can also make the borders on your paper as small as possible to save paper. 
#3
Putting it all together!
Tape all your pages together and you now have your life sized pattern.  You are going to need other views of your weapon latter on in construction but this will be the basic patter to get you started. 
I use this pattern just like a dress pattern I cut it up and break everything down in to smaller pieces that will come back together in the end. 
For the sword pictured I have a PVC pipe running down the blade for the “blood channel.” I used foam core hot glued together to form the base of the blade around the PVC .  Using my patterns I made the blade spikes out of heavy card-stock and masking tape. Due to the odd angles on the hilt of the sword I used JB Water weld to glue additional PVC pipes together to form the hilt and handle. As you can see in the third image, I have cardboard guides, made from my pattern,  taped to each side or the PVC frame all the spots that I need to be hollow for gems I filled in with paper.  The center of that frame in image 2 is just a rolled up piece of paper not PVC. 
Wiring for the lights are put in place on the cardboard guides.  I left extra wire for attaching the lights and the rest of the wire goes inside the handle.
Next I put spray foam insulation all over that area.  When the foam was dry the next day I started carving. I like to use a mat knife and a large bread knife to cut foam insulation, as seen in image 5. 
After I got the forms I needed I started on completing the wiring for the gems. This was an odd situation with gems because they are supposed to be spheres imbedded in the hilt of the sword.  I mounted the lights from the top of each hole and glued my domed gems on top making a sandwich with the light in the middle. I used foam to make spacers for the gems to sit on.  
I don’t have a picture of this, but the next step in to cover all the foam parts in masking tape. This helps with the next step… paper mache. I use Elmer’s Art Paste for my paper mache its amazing stuff a super cheap. In picture 8 everything has been covers in 3 layers of paper mache. Around the gems after the paper mache was dry I put a small bit of model magic to seal them in place. 
#4
Finishing it!  
At this point you could have covered the whole thing in Worbla if you wanted to. I didn’t care to much for how this was turning out at the time so I didn’t want to waste Worbla on it. I instead finished it my old way, my pre Worbla way. I used a mixture of gesso and light weight wall spackle and cover the whole thing and you can see me doing in 8 and 9. When dry I sand it smooth. If I have rough spots I reapply and sand the needed spots.
Normally after that step I would have given it about 4 coats of wood glue. This time I gave this a layer of plasti-dip spray paint. 
Next I gave it a coat of spray paint. I used craft paint to paint it and then I prefer Rust-Oleum Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2X Gloss Clear to seal my stuff.

You can see the completed sword in my other posts I ran out of space on this one. :p

Any questions I am always happy to help so ask away!  
Happy Costuming!!!
Zoom Info
blueknightcosplay:


 

Like many of my cosplay adventures this all starts at the kitchen table. 
Well almost most of my cosplay start on my computer with tons of research. Lol
#1
Just getting started.
So after the research I pull the best side view of the weapon I can find in to paint.net. (You can use Photoshop or Gimp too, you just need a basic image editing program for this part.)
Pull your image into the editor.  First erase any background around your image you don’t need it and it will waist your ink.  Next go to effects - artistic - pencil sketch, and then adjust how dark you want it. 
#2
Now we move on to size! 
You are going to have to get out a yard stick or something to help you judge the size your weapon should be. I’m only 5’6” so my weapons need to fit my scale, but we are all different so the size is up to you. Other things are factors too… will it fit in your car/ how are you getting it to the con, etc. Is the place you plan on taking it very crowded and you might stab someone with it if it’s too big? 
After you have determined how big you want your weapon to be.  Resize the image accordingly and you are ready to print! Make sure you are printing in grey-scale and you have marked print actual size.  You can also make the borders on your paper as small as possible to save paper. 
#3
Putting it all together!
Tape all your pages together and you now have your life sized pattern.  You are going to need other views of your weapon latter on in construction but this will be the basic patter to get you started. 
I use this pattern just like a dress pattern I cut it up and break everything down in to smaller pieces that will come back together in the end. 
For the sword pictured I have a PVC pipe running down the blade for the “blood channel.” I used foam core hot glued together to form the base of the blade around the PVC .  Using my patterns I made the blade spikes out of heavy card-stock and masking tape. Due to the odd angles on the hilt of the sword I used JB Water weld to glue additional PVC pipes together to form the hilt and handle. As you can see in the third image, I have cardboard guides, made from my pattern,  taped to each side or the PVC frame all the spots that I need to be hollow for gems I filled in with paper.  The center of that frame in image 2 is just a rolled up piece of paper not PVC. 
Wiring for the lights are put in place on the cardboard guides.  I left extra wire for attaching the lights and the rest of the wire goes inside the handle.
Next I put spray foam insulation all over that area.  When the foam was dry the next day I started carving. I like to use a mat knife and a large bread knife to cut foam insulation, as seen in image 5. 
After I got the forms I needed I started on completing the wiring for the gems. This was an odd situation with gems because they are supposed to be spheres imbedded in the hilt of the sword.  I mounted the lights from the top of each hole and glued my domed gems on top making a sandwich with the light in the middle. I used foam to make spacers for the gems to sit on.  
I don’t have a picture of this, but the next step in to cover all the foam parts in masking tape. This helps with the next step… paper mache. I use Elmer’s Art Paste for my paper mache its amazing stuff a super cheap. In picture 8 everything has been covers in 3 layers of paper mache. Around the gems after the paper mache was dry I put a small bit of model magic to seal them in place. 
#4
Finishing it!  
At this point you could have covered the whole thing in Worbla if you wanted to. I didn’t care to much for how this was turning out at the time so I didn’t want to waste Worbla on it. I instead finished it my old way, my pre Worbla way. I used a mixture of gesso and light weight wall spackle and cover the whole thing and you can see me doing in 8 and 9. When dry I sand it smooth. If I have rough spots I reapply and sand the needed spots.
Normally after that step I would have given it about 4 coats of wood glue. This time I gave this a layer of plasti-dip spray paint. 
Next I gave it a coat of spray paint. I used craft paint to paint it and then I prefer Rust-Oleum Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2X Gloss Clear to seal my stuff.

You can see the completed sword in my other posts I ran out of space on this one. :p

Any questions I am always happy to help so ask away!  
Happy Costuming!!!
Zoom Info
blueknightcosplay:


 

Like many of my cosplay adventures this all starts at the kitchen table. 
Well almost most of my cosplay start on my computer with tons of research. Lol
#1
Just getting started.
So after the research I pull the best side view of the weapon I can find in to paint.net. (You can use Photoshop or Gimp too, you just need a basic image editing program for this part.)
Pull your image into the editor.  First erase any background around your image you don’t need it and it will waist your ink.  Next go to effects - artistic - pencil sketch, and then adjust how dark you want it. 
#2
Now we move on to size! 
You are going to have to get out a yard stick or something to help you judge the size your weapon should be. I’m only 5’6” so my weapons need to fit my scale, but we are all different so the size is up to you. Other things are factors too… will it fit in your car/ how are you getting it to the con, etc. Is the place you plan on taking it very crowded and you might stab someone with it if it’s too big? 
After you have determined how big you want your weapon to be.  Resize the image accordingly and you are ready to print! Make sure you are printing in grey-scale and you have marked print actual size.  You can also make the borders on your paper as small as possible to save paper. 
#3
Putting it all together!
Tape all your pages together and you now have your life sized pattern.  You are going to need other views of your weapon latter on in construction but this will be the basic patter to get you started. 
I use this pattern just like a dress pattern I cut it up and break everything down in to smaller pieces that will come back together in the end. 
For the sword pictured I have a PVC pipe running down the blade for the “blood channel.” I used foam core hot glued together to form the base of the blade around the PVC .  Using my patterns I made the blade spikes out of heavy card-stock and masking tape. Due to the odd angles on the hilt of the sword I used JB Water weld to glue additional PVC pipes together to form the hilt and handle. As you can see in the third image, I have cardboard guides, made from my pattern,  taped to each side or the PVC frame all the spots that I need to be hollow for gems I filled in with paper.  The center of that frame in image 2 is just a rolled up piece of paper not PVC. 
Wiring for the lights are put in place on the cardboard guides.  I left extra wire for attaching the lights and the rest of the wire goes inside the handle.
Next I put spray foam insulation all over that area.  When the foam was dry the next day I started carving. I like to use a mat knife and a large bread knife to cut foam insulation, as seen in image 5. 
After I got the forms I needed I started on completing the wiring for the gems. This was an odd situation with gems because they are supposed to be spheres imbedded in the hilt of the sword.  I mounted the lights from the top of each hole and glued my domed gems on top making a sandwich with the light in the middle. I used foam to make spacers for the gems to sit on.  
I don’t have a picture of this, but the next step in to cover all the foam parts in masking tape. This helps with the next step… paper mache. I use Elmer’s Art Paste for my paper mache its amazing stuff a super cheap. In picture 8 everything has been covers in 3 layers of paper mache. Around the gems after the paper mache was dry I put a small bit of model magic to seal them in place. 
#4
Finishing it!  
At this point you could have covered the whole thing in Worbla if you wanted to. I didn’t care to much for how this was turning out at the time so I didn’t want to waste Worbla on it. I instead finished it my old way, my pre Worbla way. I used a mixture of gesso and light weight wall spackle and cover the whole thing and you can see me doing in 8 and 9. When dry I sand it smooth. If I have rough spots I reapply and sand the needed spots.
Normally after that step I would have given it about 4 coats of wood glue. This time I gave this a layer of plasti-dip spray paint. 
Next I gave it a coat of spray paint. I used craft paint to paint it and then I prefer Rust-Oleum Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2X Gloss Clear to seal my stuff.

You can see the completed sword in my other posts I ran out of space on this one. :p

Any questions I am always happy to help so ask away!  
Happy Costuming!!!
Zoom Info
blueknightcosplay:


 

Like many of my cosplay adventures this all starts at the kitchen table. 
Well almost most of my cosplay start on my computer with tons of research. Lol
#1
Just getting started.
So after the research I pull the best side view of the weapon I can find in to paint.net. (You can use Photoshop or Gimp too, you just need a basic image editing program for this part.)
Pull your image into the editor.  First erase any background around your image you don’t need it and it will waist your ink.  Next go to effects - artistic - pencil sketch, and then adjust how dark you want it. 
#2
Now we move on to size! 
You are going to have to get out a yard stick or something to help you judge the size your weapon should be. I’m only 5’6” so my weapons need to fit my scale, but we are all different so the size is up to you. Other things are factors too… will it fit in your car/ how are you getting it to the con, etc. Is the place you plan on taking it very crowded and you might stab someone with it if it’s too big? 
After you have determined how big you want your weapon to be.  Resize the image accordingly and you are ready to print! Make sure you are printing in grey-scale and you have marked print actual size.  You can also make the borders on your paper as small as possible to save paper. 
#3
Putting it all together!
Tape all your pages together and you now have your life sized pattern.  You are going to need other views of your weapon latter on in construction but this will be the basic patter to get you started. 
I use this pattern just like a dress pattern I cut it up and break everything down in to smaller pieces that will come back together in the end. 
For the sword pictured I have a PVC pipe running down the blade for the “blood channel.” I used foam core hot glued together to form the base of the blade around the PVC .  Using my patterns I made the blade spikes out of heavy card-stock and masking tape. Due to the odd angles on the hilt of the sword I used JB Water weld to glue additional PVC pipes together to form the hilt and handle. As you can see in the third image, I have cardboard guides, made from my pattern,  taped to each side or the PVC frame all the spots that I need to be hollow for gems I filled in with paper.  The center of that frame in image 2 is just a rolled up piece of paper not PVC. 
Wiring for the lights are put in place on the cardboard guides.  I left extra wire for attaching the lights and the rest of the wire goes inside the handle.
Next I put spray foam insulation all over that area.  When the foam was dry the next day I started carving. I like to use a mat knife and a large bread knife to cut foam insulation, as seen in image 5. 
After I got the forms I needed I started on completing the wiring for the gems. This was an odd situation with gems because they are supposed to be spheres imbedded in the hilt of the sword.  I mounted the lights from the top of each hole and glued my domed gems on top making a sandwich with the light in the middle. I used foam to make spacers for the gems to sit on.  
I don’t have a picture of this, but the next step in to cover all the foam parts in masking tape. This helps with the next step… paper mache. I use Elmer’s Art Paste for my paper mache its amazing stuff a super cheap. In picture 8 everything has been covers in 3 layers of paper mache. Around the gems after the paper mache was dry I put a small bit of model magic to seal them in place. 
#4
Finishing it!  
At this point you could have covered the whole thing in Worbla if you wanted to. I didn’t care to much for how this was turning out at the time so I didn’t want to waste Worbla on it. I instead finished it my old way, my pre Worbla way. I used a mixture of gesso and light weight wall spackle and cover the whole thing and you can see me doing in 8 and 9. When dry I sand it smooth. If I have rough spots I reapply and sand the needed spots.
Normally after that step I would have given it about 4 coats of wood glue. This time I gave this a layer of plasti-dip spray paint. 
Next I gave it a coat of spray paint. I used craft paint to paint it and then I prefer Rust-Oleum Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2X Gloss Clear to seal my stuff.

You can see the completed sword in my other posts I ran out of space on this one. :p

Any questions I am always happy to help so ask away!  
Happy Costuming!!!
Zoom Info
blueknightcosplay:


 

Like many of my cosplay adventures this all starts at the kitchen table. 
Well almost most of my cosplay start on my computer with tons of research. Lol
#1
Just getting started.
So after the research I pull the best side view of the weapon I can find in to paint.net. (You can use Photoshop or Gimp too, you just need a basic image editing program for this part.)
Pull your image into the editor.  First erase any background around your image you don’t need it and it will waist your ink.  Next go to effects - artistic - pencil sketch, and then adjust how dark you want it. 
#2
Now we move on to size! 
You are going to have to get out a yard stick or something to help you judge the size your weapon should be. I’m only 5’6” so my weapons need to fit my scale, but we are all different so the size is up to you. Other things are factors too… will it fit in your car/ how are you getting it to the con, etc. Is the place you plan on taking it very crowded and you might stab someone with it if it’s too big? 
After you have determined how big you want your weapon to be.  Resize the image accordingly and you are ready to print! Make sure you are printing in grey-scale and you have marked print actual size.  You can also make the borders on your paper as small as possible to save paper. 
#3
Putting it all together!
Tape all your pages together and you now have your life sized pattern.  You are going to need other views of your weapon latter on in construction but this will be the basic patter to get you started. 
I use this pattern just like a dress pattern I cut it up and break everything down in to smaller pieces that will come back together in the end. 
For the sword pictured I have a PVC pipe running down the blade for the “blood channel.” I used foam core hot glued together to form the base of the blade around the PVC .  Using my patterns I made the blade spikes out of heavy card-stock and masking tape. Due to the odd angles on the hilt of the sword I used JB Water weld to glue additional PVC pipes together to form the hilt and handle. As you can see in the third image, I have cardboard guides, made from my pattern,  taped to each side or the PVC frame all the spots that I need to be hollow for gems I filled in with paper.  The center of that frame in image 2 is just a rolled up piece of paper not PVC. 
Wiring for the lights are put in place on the cardboard guides.  I left extra wire for attaching the lights and the rest of the wire goes inside the handle.
Next I put spray foam insulation all over that area.  When the foam was dry the next day I started carving. I like to use a mat knife and a large bread knife to cut foam insulation, as seen in image 5. 
After I got the forms I needed I started on completing the wiring for the gems. This was an odd situation with gems because they are supposed to be spheres imbedded in the hilt of the sword.  I mounted the lights from the top of each hole and glued my domed gems on top making a sandwich with the light in the middle. I used foam to make spacers for the gems to sit on.  
I don’t have a picture of this, but the next step in to cover all the foam parts in masking tape. This helps with the next step… paper mache. I use Elmer’s Art Paste for my paper mache its amazing stuff a super cheap. In picture 8 everything has been covers in 3 layers of paper mache. Around the gems after the paper mache was dry I put a small bit of model magic to seal them in place. 
#4
Finishing it!  
At this point you could have covered the whole thing in Worbla if you wanted to. I didn’t care to much for how this was turning out at the time so I didn’t want to waste Worbla on it. I instead finished it my old way, my pre Worbla way. I used a mixture of gesso and light weight wall spackle and cover the whole thing and you can see me doing in 8 and 9. When dry I sand it smooth. If I have rough spots I reapply and sand the needed spots.
Normally after that step I would have given it about 4 coats of wood glue. This time I gave this a layer of plasti-dip spray paint. 
Next I gave it a coat of spray paint. I used craft paint to paint it and then I prefer Rust-Oleum Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2X Gloss Clear to seal my stuff.

You can see the completed sword in my other posts I ran out of space on this one. :p

Any questions I am always happy to help so ask away!  
Happy Costuming!!!
Zoom Info
blueknightcosplay:


 

Like many of my cosplay adventures this all starts at the kitchen table. 
Well almost most of my cosplay start on my computer with tons of research. Lol
#1
Just getting started.
So after the research I pull the best side view of the weapon I can find in to paint.net. (You can use Photoshop or Gimp too, you just need a basic image editing program for this part.)
Pull your image into the editor.  First erase any background around your image you don’t need it and it will waist your ink.  Next go to effects - artistic - pencil sketch, and then adjust how dark you want it. 
#2
Now we move on to size! 
You are going to have to get out a yard stick or something to help you judge the size your weapon should be. I’m only 5’6” so my weapons need to fit my scale, but we are all different so the size is up to you. Other things are factors too… will it fit in your car/ how are you getting it to the con, etc. Is the place you plan on taking it very crowded and you might stab someone with it if it’s too big? 
After you have determined how big you want your weapon to be.  Resize the image accordingly and you are ready to print! Make sure you are printing in grey-scale and you have marked print actual size.  You can also make the borders on your paper as small as possible to save paper. 
#3
Putting it all together!
Tape all your pages together and you now have your life sized pattern.  You are going to need other views of your weapon latter on in construction but this will be the basic patter to get you started. 
I use this pattern just like a dress pattern I cut it up and break everything down in to smaller pieces that will come back together in the end. 
For the sword pictured I have a PVC pipe running down the blade for the “blood channel.” I used foam core hot glued together to form the base of the blade around the PVC .  Using my patterns I made the blade spikes out of heavy card-stock and masking tape. Due to the odd angles on the hilt of the sword I used JB Water weld to glue additional PVC pipes together to form the hilt and handle. As you can see in the third image, I have cardboard guides, made from my pattern,  taped to each side or the PVC frame all the spots that I need to be hollow for gems I filled in with paper.  The center of that frame in image 2 is just a rolled up piece of paper not PVC. 
Wiring for the lights are put in place on the cardboard guides.  I left extra wire for attaching the lights and the rest of the wire goes inside the handle.
Next I put spray foam insulation all over that area.  When the foam was dry the next day I started carving. I like to use a mat knife and a large bread knife to cut foam insulation, as seen in image 5. 
After I got the forms I needed I started on completing the wiring for the gems. This was an odd situation with gems because they are supposed to be spheres imbedded in the hilt of the sword.  I mounted the lights from the top of each hole and glued my domed gems on top making a sandwich with the light in the middle. I used foam to make spacers for the gems to sit on.  
I don’t have a picture of this, but the next step in to cover all the foam parts in masking tape. This helps with the next step… paper mache. I use Elmer’s Art Paste for my paper mache its amazing stuff a super cheap. In picture 8 everything has been covers in 3 layers of paper mache. Around the gems after the paper mache was dry I put a small bit of model magic to seal them in place. 
#4
Finishing it!  
At this point you could have covered the whole thing in Worbla if you wanted to. I didn’t care to much for how this was turning out at the time so I didn’t want to waste Worbla on it. I instead finished it my old way, my pre Worbla way. I used a mixture of gesso and light weight wall spackle and cover the whole thing and you can see me doing in 8 and 9. When dry I sand it smooth. If I have rough spots I reapply and sand the needed spots.
Normally after that step I would have given it about 4 coats of wood glue. This time I gave this a layer of plasti-dip spray paint. 
Next I gave it a coat of spray paint. I used craft paint to paint it and then I prefer Rust-Oleum Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2X Gloss Clear to seal my stuff.

You can see the completed sword in my other posts I ran out of space on this one. :p

Any questions I am always happy to help so ask away!  
Happy Costuming!!!
Zoom Info
blueknightcosplay:


 

Like many of my cosplay adventures this all starts at the kitchen table. 
Well almost most of my cosplay start on my computer with tons of research. Lol
#1
Just getting started.
So after the research I pull the best side view of the weapon I can find in to paint.net. (You can use Photoshop or Gimp too, you just need a basic image editing program for this part.)
Pull your image into the editor.  First erase any background around your image you don’t need it and it will waist your ink.  Next go to effects - artistic - pencil sketch, and then adjust how dark you want it. 
#2
Now we move on to size! 
You are going to have to get out a yard stick or something to help you judge the size your weapon should be. I’m only 5’6” so my weapons need to fit my scale, but we are all different so the size is up to you. Other things are factors too… will it fit in your car/ how are you getting it to the con, etc. Is the place you plan on taking it very crowded and you might stab someone with it if it’s too big? 
After you have determined how big you want your weapon to be.  Resize the image accordingly and you are ready to print! Make sure you are printing in grey-scale and you have marked print actual size.  You can also make the borders on your paper as small as possible to save paper. 
#3
Putting it all together!
Tape all your pages together and you now have your life sized pattern.  You are going to need other views of your weapon latter on in construction but this will be the basic patter to get you started. 
I use this pattern just like a dress pattern I cut it up and break everything down in to smaller pieces that will come back together in the end. 
For the sword pictured I have a PVC pipe running down the blade for the “blood channel.” I used foam core hot glued together to form the base of the blade around the PVC .  Using my patterns I made the blade spikes out of heavy card-stock and masking tape. Due to the odd angles on the hilt of the sword I used JB Water weld to glue additional PVC pipes together to form the hilt and handle. As you can see in the third image, I have cardboard guides, made from my pattern,  taped to each side or the PVC frame all the spots that I need to be hollow for gems I filled in with paper.  The center of that frame in image 2 is just a rolled up piece of paper not PVC. 
Wiring for the lights are put in place on the cardboard guides.  I left extra wire for attaching the lights and the rest of the wire goes inside the handle.
Next I put spray foam insulation all over that area.  When the foam was dry the next day I started carving. I like to use a mat knife and a large bread knife to cut foam insulation, as seen in image 5. 
After I got the forms I needed I started on completing the wiring for the gems. This was an odd situation with gems because they are supposed to be spheres imbedded in the hilt of the sword.  I mounted the lights from the top of each hole and glued my domed gems on top making a sandwich with the light in the middle. I used foam to make spacers for the gems to sit on.  
I don’t have a picture of this, but the next step in to cover all the foam parts in masking tape. This helps with the next step… paper mache. I use Elmer’s Art Paste for my paper mache its amazing stuff a super cheap. In picture 8 everything has been covers in 3 layers of paper mache. Around the gems after the paper mache was dry I put a small bit of model magic to seal them in place. 
#4
Finishing it!  
At this point you could have covered the whole thing in Worbla if you wanted to. I didn’t care to much for how this was turning out at the time so I didn’t want to waste Worbla on it. I instead finished it my old way, my pre Worbla way. I used a mixture of gesso and light weight wall spackle and cover the whole thing and you can see me doing in 8 and 9. When dry I sand it smooth. If I have rough spots I reapply and sand the needed spots.
Normally after that step I would have given it about 4 coats of wood glue. This time I gave this a layer of plasti-dip spray paint. 
Next I gave it a coat of spray paint. I used craft paint to paint it and then I prefer Rust-Oleum Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2X Gloss Clear to seal my stuff.

You can see the completed sword in my other posts I ran out of space on this one. :p

Any questions I am always happy to help so ask away!  
Happy Costuming!!!
Zoom Info
blueknightcosplay:


 

Like many of my cosplay adventures this all starts at the kitchen table. 
Well almost most of my cosplay start on my computer with tons of research. Lol
#1
Just getting started.
So after the research I pull the best side view of the weapon I can find in to paint.net. (You can use Photoshop or Gimp too, you just need a basic image editing program for this part.)
Pull your image into the editor.  First erase any background around your image you don’t need it and it will waist your ink.  Next go to effects - artistic - pencil sketch, and then adjust how dark you want it. 
#2
Now we move on to size! 
You are going to have to get out a yard stick or something to help you judge the size your weapon should be. I’m only 5’6” so my weapons need to fit my scale, but we are all different so the size is up to you. Other things are factors too… will it fit in your car/ how are you getting it to the con, etc. Is the place you plan on taking it very crowded and you might stab someone with it if it’s too big? 
After you have determined how big you want your weapon to be.  Resize the image accordingly and you are ready to print! Make sure you are printing in grey-scale and you have marked print actual size.  You can also make the borders on your paper as small as possible to save paper. 
#3
Putting it all together!
Tape all your pages together and you now have your life sized pattern.  You are going to need other views of your weapon latter on in construction but this will be the basic patter to get you started. 
I use this pattern just like a dress pattern I cut it up and break everything down in to smaller pieces that will come back together in the end. 
For the sword pictured I have a PVC pipe running down the blade for the “blood channel.” I used foam core hot glued together to form the base of the blade around the PVC .  Using my patterns I made the blade spikes out of heavy card-stock and masking tape. Due to the odd angles on the hilt of the sword I used JB Water weld to glue additional PVC pipes together to form the hilt and handle. As you can see in the third image, I have cardboard guides, made from my pattern,  taped to each side or the PVC frame all the spots that I need to be hollow for gems I filled in with paper.  The center of that frame in image 2 is just a rolled up piece of paper not PVC. 
Wiring for the lights are put in place on the cardboard guides.  I left extra wire for attaching the lights and the rest of the wire goes inside the handle.
Next I put spray foam insulation all over that area.  When the foam was dry the next day I started carving. I like to use a mat knife and a large bread knife to cut foam insulation, as seen in image 5. 
After I got the forms I needed I started on completing the wiring for the gems. This was an odd situation with gems because they are supposed to be spheres imbedded in the hilt of the sword.  I mounted the lights from the top of each hole and glued my domed gems on top making a sandwich with the light in the middle. I used foam to make spacers for the gems to sit on.  
I don’t have a picture of this, but the next step in to cover all the foam parts in masking tape. This helps with the next step… paper mache. I use Elmer’s Art Paste for my paper mache its amazing stuff a super cheap. In picture 8 everything has been covers in 3 layers of paper mache. Around the gems after the paper mache was dry I put a small bit of model magic to seal them in place. 
#4
Finishing it!  
At this point you could have covered the whole thing in Worbla if you wanted to. I didn’t care to much for how this was turning out at the time so I didn’t want to waste Worbla on it. I instead finished it my old way, my pre Worbla way. I used a mixture of gesso and light weight wall spackle and cover the whole thing and you can see me doing in 8 and 9. When dry I sand it smooth. If I have rough spots I reapply and sand the needed spots.
Normally after that step I would have given it about 4 coats of wood glue. This time I gave this a layer of plasti-dip spray paint. 
Next I gave it a coat of spray paint. I used craft paint to paint it and then I prefer Rust-Oleum Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2X Gloss Clear to seal my stuff.

You can see the completed sword in my other posts I ran out of space on this one. :p

Any questions I am always happy to help so ask away!  
Happy Costuming!!!
Zoom Info
blueknightcosplay:


 

Like many of my cosplay adventures this all starts at the kitchen table. 
Well almost most of my cosplay start on my computer with tons of research. Lol
#1
Just getting started.
So after the research I pull the best side view of the weapon I can find in to paint.net. (You can use Photoshop or Gimp too, you just need a basic image editing program for this part.)
Pull your image into the editor.  First erase any background around your image you don’t need it and it will waist your ink.  Next go to effects - artistic - pencil sketch, and then adjust how dark you want it. 
#2
Now we move on to size! 
You are going to have to get out a yard stick or something to help you judge the size your weapon should be. I’m only 5’6” so my weapons need to fit my scale, but we are all different so the size is up to you. Other things are factors too… will it fit in your car/ how are you getting it to the con, etc. Is the place you plan on taking it very crowded and you might stab someone with it if it’s too big? 
After you have determined how big you want your weapon to be.  Resize the image accordingly and you are ready to print! Make sure you are printing in grey-scale and you have marked print actual size.  You can also make the borders on your paper as small as possible to save paper. 
#3
Putting it all together!
Tape all your pages together and you now have your life sized pattern.  You are going to need other views of your weapon latter on in construction but this will be the basic patter to get you started. 
I use this pattern just like a dress pattern I cut it up and break everything down in to smaller pieces that will come back together in the end. 
For the sword pictured I have a PVC pipe running down the blade for the “blood channel.” I used foam core hot glued together to form the base of the blade around the PVC .  Using my patterns I made the blade spikes out of heavy card-stock and masking tape. Due to the odd angles on the hilt of the sword I used JB Water weld to glue additional PVC pipes together to form the hilt and handle. As you can see in the third image, I have cardboard guides, made from my pattern,  taped to each side or the PVC frame all the spots that I need to be hollow for gems I filled in with paper.  The center of that frame in image 2 is just a rolled up piece of paper not PVC. 
Wiring for the lights are put in place on the cardboard guides.  I left extra wire for attaching the lights and the rest of the wire goes inside the handle.
Next I put spray foam insulation all over that area.  When the foam was dry the next day I started carving. I like to use a mat knife and a large bread knife to cut foam insulation, as seen in image 5. 
After I got the forms I needed I started on completing the wiring for the gems. This was an odd situation with gems because they are supposed to be spheres imbedded in the hilt of the sword.  I mounted the lights from the top of each hole and glued my domed gems on top making a sandwich with the light in the middle. I used foam to make spacers for the gems to sit on.  
I don’t have a picture of this, but the next step in to cover all the foam parts in masking tape. This helps with the next step… paper mache. I use Elmer’s Art Paste for my paper mache its amazing stuff a super cheap. In picture 8 everything has been covers in 3 layers of paper mache. Around the gems after the paper mache was dry I put a small bit of model magic to seal them in place. 
#4
Finishing it!  
At this point you could have covered the whole thing in Worbla if you wanted to. I didn’t care to much for how this was turning out at the time so I didn’t want to waste Worbla on it. I instead finished it my old way, my pre Worbla way. I used a mixture of gesso and light weight wall spackle and cover the whole thing and you can see me doing in 8 and 9. When dry I sand it smooth. If I have rough spots I reapply and sand the needed spots.
Normally after that step I would have given it about 4 coats of wood glue. This time I gave this a layer of plasti-dip spray paint. 
Next I gave it a coat of spray paint. I used craft paint to paint it and then I prefer Rust-Oleum Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2X Gloss Clear to seal my stuff.

You can see the completed sword in my other posts I ran out of space on this one. :p

Any questions I am always happy to help so ask away!  
Happy Costuming!!!
Zoom Info
blueknightcosplay:


 

Like many of my cosplay adventures this all starts at the kitchen table. 
Well almost most of my cosplay start on my computer with tons of research. Lol
#1
Just getting started.
So after the research I pull the best side view of the weapon I can find in to paint.net. (You can use Photoshop or Gimp too, you just need a basic image editing program for this part.)
Pull your image into the editor.  First erase any background around your image you don’t need it and it will waist your ink.  Next go to effects - artistic - pencil sketch, and then adjust how dark you want it. 
#2
Now we move on to size! 
You are going to have to get out a yard stick or something to help you judge the size your weapon should be. I’m only 5’6” so my weapons need to fit my scale, but we are all different so the size is up to you. Other things are factors too… will it fit in your car/ how are you getting it to the con, etc. Is the place you plan on taking it very crowded and you might stab someone with it if it’s too big? 
After you have determined how big you want your weapon to be.  Resize the image accordingly and you are ready to print! Make sure you are printing in grey-scale and you have marked print actual size.  You can also make the borders on your paper as small as possible to save paper. 
#3
Putting it all together!
Tape all your pages together and you now have your life sized pattern.  You are going to need other views of your weapon latter on in construction but this will be the basic patter to get you started. 
I use this pattern just like a dress pattern I cut it up and break everything down in to smaller pieces that will come back together in the end. 
For the sword pictured I have a PVC pipe running down the blade for the “blood channel.” I used foam core hot glued together to form the base of the blade around the PVC .  Using my patterns I made the blade spikes out of heavy card-stock and masking tape. Due to the odd angles on the hilt of the sword I used JB Water weld to glue additional PVC pipes together to form the hilt and handle. As you can see in the third image, I have cardboard guides, made from my pattern,  taped to each side or the PVC frame all the spots that I need to be hollow for gems I filled in with paper.  The center of that frame in image 2 is just a rolled up piece of paper not PVC. 
Wiring for the lights are put in place on the cardboard guides.  I left extra wire for attaching the lights and the rest of the wire goes inside the handle.
Next I put spray foam insulation all over that area.  When the foam was dry the next day I started carving. I like to use a mat knife and a large bread knife to cut foam insulation, as seen in image 5. 
After I got the forms I needed I started on completing the wiring for the gems. This was an odd situation with gems because they are supposed to be spheres imbedded in the hilt of the sword.  I mounted the lights from the top of each hole and glued my domed gems on top making a sandwich with the light in the middle. I used foam to make spacers for the gems to sit on.  
I don’t have a picture of this, but the next step in to cover all the foam parts in masking tape. This helps with the next step… paper mache. I use Elmer’s Art Paste for my paper mache its amazing stuff a super cheap. In picture 8 everything has been covers in 3 layers of paper mache. Around the gems after the paper mache was dry I put a small bit of model magic to seal them in place. 
#4
Finishing it!  
At this point you could have covered the whole thing in Worbla if you wanted to. I didn’t care to much for how this was turning out at the time so I didn’t want to waste Worbla on it. I instead finished it my old way, my pre Worbla way. I used a mixture of gesso and light weight wall spackle and cover the whole thing and you can see me doing in 8 and 9. When dry I sand it smooth. If I have rough spots I reapply and sand the needed spots.
Normally after that step I would have given it about 4 coats of wood glue. This time I gave this a layer of plasti-dip spray paint. 
Next I gave it a coat of spray paint. I used craft paint to paint it and then I prefer Rust-Oleum Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2X Gloss Clear to seal my stuff.

You can see the completed sword in my other posts I ran out of space on this one. :p

Any questions I am always happy to help so ask away!  
Happy Costuming!!!
Zoom Info

blueknightcosplay:

 

Like many of my cosplay adventures this all starts at the kitchen table.

Well almost most of my cosplay start on my computer with tons of research. Lol

#1

Just getting started.

So after the research I pull the best side view of the weapon I can find in to paint.net. (You can use Photoshop or Gimp too, you just need a basic image editing program for this part.)

Pull your image into the editor.  First erase any background around your image you don’t need it and it will waist your ink.  Next go to effects - artistic - pencil sketch, and then adjust how dark you want it.

#2

Now we move on to size!

You are going to have to get out a yard stick or something to help you judge the size your weapon should be. I’m only 5’6” so my weapons need to fit my scale, but we are all different so the size is up to you. Other things are factors too… will it fit in your car/ how are you getting it to the con, etc. Is the place you plan on taking it very crowded and you might stab someone with it if it’s too big?

After you have determined how big you want your weapon to be.  Resize the image accordingly and you are ready to print! Make sure you are printing in grey-scale and you have marked print actual size.  You can also make the borders on your paper as small as possible to save paper.

#3

Putting it all together!

Tape all your pages together and you now have your life sized pattern.  You are going to need other views of your weapon latter on in construction but this will be the basic patter to get you started.

I use this pattern just like a dress pattern I cut it up and break everything down in to smaller pieces that will come back together in the end.

For the sword pictured I have a PVC pipe running down the blade for the “blood channel.” I used foam core hot glued together to form the base of the blade around the PVC .  Using my patterns I made the blade spikes out of heavy card-stock and masking tape. Due to the odd angles on the hilt of the sword I used JB Water weld to glue additional PVC pipes together to form the hilt and handle. As you can see in the third image, I have cardboard guides, made from my pattern,  taped to each side or the PVC frame all the spots that I need to be hollow for gems I filled in with paper.  The center of that frame in image 2 is just a rolled up piece of paper not PVC.

Wiring for the lights are put in place on the cardboard guides.  I left extra wire for attaching the lights and the rest of the wire goes inside the handle.

Next I put spray foam insulation all over that area.  When the foam was dry the next day I started carving. I like to use a mat knife and a large bread knife to cut foam insulation, as seen in image 5.

After I got the forms I needed I started on completing the wiring for the gems. This was an odd situation with gems because they are supposed to be spheres imbedded in the hilt of the sword.  I mounted the lights from the top of each hole and glued my domed gems on top making a sandwich with the light in the middle. I used foam to make spacers for the gems to sit on. 

I don’t have a picture of this, but the next step in to cover all the foam parts in masking tape. This helps with the next step… paper mache. I use Elmer’s Art Paste for my paper mache its amazing stuff a super cheap. In picture 8 everything has been covers in 3 layers of paper mache. Around the gems after the paper mache was dry I put a small bit of model magic to seal them in place.

#4

Finishing it! 

At this point you could have covered the whole thing in Worbla if you wanted to. I didn’t care to much for how this was turning out at the time so I didn’t want to waste Worbla on it. I instead finished it my old way, my pre Worbla way. I used a mixture of gesso and light weight wall spackle and cover the whole thing and you can see me doing in 8 and 9. When dry I sand it smooth. If I have rough spots I reapply and sand the needed spots.

Normally after that step I would have given it about 4 coats of wood glue. This time I gave this a layer of plasti-dip spray paint.

Next I gave it a coat of spray paint. I used craft paint to paint it and then I prefer Rust-Oleum Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2X Gloss Clear to seal my stuff.

You can see the completed sword in my other posts I ran out of space on this one. :p

Any questions I am always happy to help so ask away! 

Happy Costuming!!!

kokorokristin:

I’m back at school now so things are going to be a little quiet on the cosplay progress front (33 days til NYCC) but right before I left I made my mom take some pictures of my butt my Ms. Marvel costume. We just went out on to our balcony, but since we’re in New York it’s still technically character appropriate. Holla at ya NYC girls!

hot damn I still can’t believe I’m lucky enough to cosplay with this babe
Zoom Info
kokorokristin:

I’m back at school now so things are going to be a little quiet on the cosplay progress front (33 days til NYCC) but right before I left I made my mom take some pictures of my butt my Ms. Marvel costume. We just went out on to our balcony, but since we’re in New York it’s still technically character appropriate. Holla at ya NYC girls!

hot damn I still can’t believe I’m lucky enough to cosplay with this babe
Zoom Info

kokorokristin:

I’m back at school now so things are going to be a little quiet on the cosplay progress front (33 days til NYCC) but right before I left I made my mom take some pictures of my butt my Ms. Marvel costume. We just went out on to our balcony, but since we’re in New York it’s still technically character appropriate. Holla at ya NYC girls!

hot damn I still can’t believe I’m lucky enough to cosplay with this babe

To Tumblr, Love Pixel Union